Hagg Leys Farm

Month: September 2013 (Page 2 of 4)

Terraces in the sunken garden

September 23, 2013 /

The concrete base and retaining walls are now finished in the sunken garden.  The blockwork will have a dry stone wall at the front.  We have bought some reclaimed stone for this purpose.  It is already coursed out – bags of 6 inch high stones and bags of 3 inch stones.  This allows us to break up the courses when building a wall – we will put in some 6 inch stones at random.  I built a small amount of test wall to make sure that it looks ok.  It is difficult to tell from such a small section, but I am sure it will look fine.

The dry stone wall will be back bedded – a small amount of mortar is used on the back of each stone to hold them in position.  Using mortar also allows us to cement in the metal (stainless steel) ties that have been left protruding from the retaining wall.

There are going to be 2 terraces in the courtyard garden. The white bags to picture right are full of reclaimed stone for the dry stone wall that will stand in front of the blockwork.

There are going to be 2 terraces in the courtyard garden. The white bags to picture right are full of reclaimed stone for the dry stone wall that will stand in front of the blockwork.

The dry stone walling stone has arrived. It has come in around 10 one tonne bags. These are easily lifted into position with the telehandler.

The dry stone walling stone has arrived. It has come in around 10 one tonne bags. These are easily lifted into position with the telehandler.

The soakaway is actaully a 15ft deep hole filled with clean rubble at the base. The rubble is covered with Visqueen (plastic) that stops fine dirt and earth from washing in and blocking up the drain.

The soakaway is actaully a 15ft deep hole filled with clean rubble at the base. The rubble is covered with Visqueen (plastic) that stops fine dirt and earth from washing in and blocking up the drain.

The land drain is installed behind the wall at the base. If any water gets caught behind the wall, it drains into the pipe and is then diverted into a soakaway. This stops water building up behind the wall and pushing it over (potentially).

The land drain is installed behind the wall at the base. If any water gets caught behind the wall, it drains into the pipe and is then diverted into a soakaway. This stops water building up behind the wall and pushing it over (potentially).

Close up of the land drain that is inserted behind the retaining wall. Any water that gathers behind the retaining wall will seem into this pipe and is then directed away from the house. The pipe eventually feeds into a soakaway - a large hole filled with rubble and then covered back over.

Close up of the land drain that is inserted behind the retaining wall. Any water that gathers behind the retaining wall will seem into this pipe and is then directed away from the house. The pipe eventually feeds into a soakaway – a large hole filled with rubble and then covered back over.

The blockwork retaining wall will have a dry stone wall at the front. The stone will be back bedded and tied into the retaining wall using stainless steel ties. This photo shows what the dry stone wall might look like. We are using local reclaimed stone.

The blockwork retaining wall will have a dry stone wall at the front. The stone will be back bedded and tied into the retaining wall using stainless steel ties. This photo shows what the dry stone wall might look like. We are using local reclaimed stone.

Insulating the end gable

September 21, 2013 /

A studwall was erected this week to cover the damp proof membrane that has been installed on the end gable.  This will ensure that the plasterboard can be easily fixed to the stud (rather than trying to attach it to the waterproof membrane).

Fortunately, we seem to have over ordered the 50mm insulation boards so it is a simple case of cutting the boards to fit tightly into the panels in the stud wall.

It only took 1/2 day to complete this.  I seem to have got the hang of this! You can see the time lapse here.

50mm insulation board has been cut tightly and jammed in place. It took half a day to insulate this end wall.

50mm insulation board has been cut tightly and jammed in place. It took half a day to insulate this end wall.

Just when you thought all the insulation was done

September 19, 2013 /

We have decided that it would be a good idea to put up a studwork partition and then attached the insulated plasterboard to it.  The original plan was to attached the plasterboard to the damp proof membrane (that brown stuff), but we have decided that this is a better approach. 

However, it does mean that insulated boards have to be put in the studwork.  Just as well since we have some boards left over!

Originally, this gable end had suffered with damp. It had a partition that was insulated with rockwool. We have put a damp proof membrane on the wall and have then constructed a studwork partition. This will be insulated and then covered with plasterboard.

Originally, this gable end had suffered with damp. It had a partition that was insulated with rockwool. We have put a damp proof membrane on the wall and have then constructed a studwork partition. This will be insulated and then covered with plasterboard.

Retaining walls in the sunken garden

September 19, 2013 /

While I have been down in London for the past couple of days, the builders have made good progress with the retaining walls in the sunken garden.  The walls are now complete and ready for the dry stone wall to be construct in front of them.  Even the stone has arrived on site, so there is no excuse for not getting on with this work. 

While I have been down in London for the past 2 days, the builders have started (and finsihed) the retaining walls for the sunken garden.

While I have been down in London for the past 2 days, the builders have started (and finsihed) the retaining walls for the sunken garden.

This blockwork will be largely hidden by a dry stone wall at the front. There are metal ties that enable the dry stone wall to be attached to the blockwork at the back.

This blockwork will be largely hidden by a dry stone wall at the front. There are metal ties that enable the dry stone wall to be attached to the blockwork at the back.

The coil of black pipe is a "land drain" that will be inserted behind the wall. The pipe has holes in it allowing water to seep in. This will prevent any water that gathers behind the wall to seep into the pipe and run away into a soak away.

The coil of black pipe is a “land drain” that will be inserted behind the wall. The pipe has holes in it allowing water to seep in. This will prevent any water that gathers behind the wall to seep into the pipe and run away into a soak away.

This arrived while I was away in London. There are two bags with 6 inch courses, but the rest is largely 3 inch. This enables us to break up the courses a bit when building the wall.

This arrived while I was away in London. There are two bags with 6 inch courses, but the rest is largely 3 inch. This enables us to break up the courses a bit when building the wall.

This is the first stone that we have imported for building dry stone walls. It will be used to face the blockwork in the sunken garden. It is much better than any of the other stone we have been using to build dry stone walls with.

This is the first stone that we have imported for building dry stone walls. It will be used to face the blockwork in the sunken garden. It is much better than any of the other stone we have been using to build dry stone walls with.

Pouring the concrete for the retaining walls

September 16, 2013 /

There are going to be a couple of retaining walls built out of concrete blocks in the courtyard garden.  You can see the 3D view of the courtyard garden here.

There will be a dry stone wall in front of the blockwork, but the blockwork is there to ensure that the soil doesn’t push the wall over. Since we are on bedrock, there is hardly any need for the concrete, however, it does provide a level surface from which to build the retaining wall.  This was the same concrete pump that we used to lay the foundations for the extension.

Half way through pouring the concrete, it started to rain. 

The chap on the left is remotely controlling the boom arm on the concrete pump. The pump has reached over the house and is pouring the concrete in the back garden.

The chap on the left is remotely controlling the boom arm on the concrete pump. The pump has reached over the house and is pouring the concrete in the back garden.

Pouring the concrete for the retaining walls in the garden.

Pouring the concrete for the retaining walls in the garden.

Just in case you ever thought that working on a building site was fun! And yes, it does rain in Yorkshire. A lot.

Just in case you ever thought that working on a building site was fun! And yes, it does rain in Yorkshire. A lot.

Installing roof insulation

September 15, 2013 /

The roof insulation consists of a 50mm board of high density foam fitted between the rafters.  This is then covered with plasterboard before being finally plastered and painted.

The boards are cut to size with an ordinary hand saw and jammed into position between the rafters.  As you can imagine, none of the rafters are straight or parallel, so this is a time-consuming business.  It has taken me 5.5 days to nearly complete the job.  There is a section of roof still to be done, but I need to set up some tower scaffold in the stairwell to be able to reach the roof.  All in all, I reckon I have cut somewhere in the region of 300-400 boards so far.

The good news is that by me doing the work, it has reduced the cost by £860.  The plasterers (who would normally do this work) were very keen for me to do it.  Having spent the best part of a week doing it, I can now understand why!

The roof insulation consists of 50mm high density boards that are foil coated on either side. This are cut and fitted between the rafters. They are then covered by a insulatied plasterboard before being finally plastered.

The roof insulation consists of 50mm high density boards that are foil coated on either side. This are cut and fitted between the rafters. They are then covered by a insulatied plasterboard before being finally plastered.

The boards are slotted between the rafters and behind the large oak purlins. Much of the purlins will remain exposed even when the plasterboard is fitted.

The boards are slotted between the rafters and behind the large oak purlins. Much of the purlins will remain exposed even when the plasterboard is fitted.

Each of the boards is cut to the precise width and jammed in place. Some of them need "adjusting" do to the nature of the rafters not being straight.

Each of the boards is cut to the precise width and jammed in place. Some of them need “adjusting” do to the nature of the rafters not being straight.

Foundations for the garden walls

September 11, 2013 /

Before the excavators are returned, we have been doing some tidying up.  This has included reinstating bits of the top soil and digging the footings for the retaining walls in the garden.  I am quite keen to return parts of the site back to it’s original condition asap.  This way the grass will have a chance to re-establish itself before we move in (otherwise, it will be like living on a building site).

We have also started stacking all the blocks ready for when the extension starts to get built.

We have dug out the footings for the retaining wall in the sunken garden. There will be a dry stone wall in front of the retaining wall. We will build the dry stone wall ourselves.

We have dug out the footings for the retaining wall in the sunken garden. There will be a dry stone wall in front of the retaining wall. We will build the dry stone wall ourselves.

It rained this afternoon and there is nothing more miserable than a wet building site. The blocks are all stacked ready to start building the extension.

It rained this afternoon and there is nothing more miserable than a wet building site. The blocks are all stacked ready to start building the extension.

Topsoil and re-seeding

September 11, 2013 /

More of the top soil has gone down today.  One of our next jobs will be to re-seed this area.  The seed arrived today.

We are using grass seed that is specifically intended for reinstatement after groundworks.  I didn’t know there was such a thing, but you will find the description here. I only ordered online at the weekend and we should hopefully be in a position to re-seed part of the field this weekend (weather permitting).  It looks as if a 25kg of grass seed should be enough to re-seed all of the top field.  We need to get going as grass stops growing once the temperature drops below 5C.

We have re-layed a lot of the top soil on the area of the field that it is unlikely to get used over the next few months. Next step is to re-seed it. Hopefully, we will get around to it this weekend (weather permitting).

We have re-layed a lot of the top soil on the area of the field that it is unlikely to get used over the next few months. Next step is to re-seed it. Hopefully, we will get around to it this weekend (weather permitting).

With any luck, this 25kg bag of grass seed should be enough to reinstated the top field. We will see. I hope that we will be able to re-seed the field this week. This will give the grass half a chance of germinating before the winter sets in.

With any luck, this 25kg bag of grass seed should be enough to reinstated the top field. We will see. I hope that we will be able to re-seed the field this week. This will give the grass half a chance of germinating before the winter sets in.

Starting on the insulation

September 11, 2013 /

We need to install 50mm of insulation between the roof rafters.  This will then be covered with insulated plasterboard (67mm) that is finally plastered.  This will achieve a U value of around 0.2 which is pretty good for a property of this type.

The insulation arrives as 8ft x 4ft boards that need to be cut into strips.  These strips are then jammed in between the rafters.  The board is cut with an ordinary wood saw, but getting it to the right size can be a bit of a challenge as not all the rafters are parallel.  It is a fairly messy job and the bits of polysytrene seem to get everywhere (particularly my eyes).  However, I hope that we will have finished this job by the end of the weekend.

It has taken just less than a day to install the insulation in my study. We can reduce the cost of the plastering work by installing the insulation ourselves. It is relatively easy to do, but it is messy and time consuming.

It has taken just less than a day to install the insulation in my study. We can reduce the cost of the plastering work by installing the insulation ourselves. It is relatively easy to do, but it is messy and time consuming.

There is 50mm insulation to be installed between the rafters. This arrives as a 8ft x 4ft sheet that needs to be cut into strips. The strips need to be tight so that the insulation is held in place.

There is 50mm insulation to be installed between the rafters. This arrives as a 8ft x 4ft sheet that needs to be cut into strips. The strips need to be tight so that the insulation is held in place.

Cutting the insullation boards around the new partitions is a bit time consuming (and occasionally frustrating!).

Cutting the insullation boards around the new partitions is a bit time consuming (and occasionally frustrating!).

Re-laying the top soil

September 11, 2013 /

All of the ground loops for the ground source heat pump have been covered.  The ground loops were  pressurised to 1 bar when they were installed.  And there are still pressurised to 1 bar after the soil has been put back.  At least we know that none of the pipes have damaged while the soil has been reinstated.

We are going to re-lay the topsoil on those areas of the field away from the builder’s cabin and the house.  We can then re-seed this part of the field and it will have the opportunity to the grass to grow before the winter sets in.  I am guessing that we will reseed at least 1/3 of the field (around 450 sqm) in the next few days (weather permitting).

The view from the soil pile - we are relaying the top soil on the far part of the field.

The view from the soil pile – we are relaying the top soil on the far part of the field.

We are going to be putting the topsoil back down on the area of the field away from the builder's cabin and the house. We will relay the rest of the topsoil, once the building work is finished.

We are going to be putting the topsoil back down on the area of the field away from the builder’s cabin and the house. We will relay the rest of the topsoil, once the building work is finished.

The subsoil has been tracked in and levelled. There are 1000m of pipe under this particular patch of the field.

The subsoil has been tracked in and levelled. There are 1000m of pipe under this particular patch of the field.

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