Another good day on the blockwork, but at least another 4-5 days to go before it is all up to the level of the new concrete slab. I reck0n it will be next week before we are in a position to pour the concrete slab.
Author: stephen (Page 37 of 61)
We have put quite a bit of manpower onto building up the blockwork – 2 brickies, one apprentice and a labourer (in addition we have had 3 underfloor heating engineers and a carpenter on site). So today has been busy.
The cement mixer has been going all day trying to keep up with the blockwork. Even so, it is going to take at least a week before we are ready to lay the concrete base.
The pipework has been installed in the underfloor plates that were installed. It seems strange to think that this is going to heat the upstairs of the house. It hardly seems enough, but when you think about it, these plates are really just a massive radiator – albeit installed under the carpet.
The first floor bedrooms will have carpet and it is possible to install “low tog” underlay and carpet that will help transmit the heat through the floor. Often underfloor heating is associated with solid floors, however, I am assured that it works well with both timber and carpet. We will just have to see how it works.

All of the pipework for the underfloor heating upstairs has now been installed. Tomorrow our attention will turn to the underfloor heating downstairs.
With the footings sorted out at the weekend, we can now move on to starting on the blockwork.
It took most of the day to do the marking out and check all of the levels. The blockwork will be brought up to the specified height. The outside of the trench will then be back filled with subsoil. The inside will be levelled, stone added and then steel mesh will be installed before the concrete base of the building is then laid. The level of the floor is level with the top of the block work. I reckon we will be in a position to lay the floor in the next 10-14 days. There is quite a bit of work here (as you can see from the amount of concrete blocks) plus there are quite a few changes in floor level.
We made a start today on installing the underfloor heating. We are installing this throughout the building – both upstairs and downstairs.
The upstairs heating works via a system of metal plates that are fixed to the underside of the floorboards and heated by a set of water pipes. We left a 25mm gap between the large oak beams and the floor joists to make installing the plates a little easier. We have also cut out notches in the joists before the floors went down to make it easier to run the pipework.
All in all, it only took a day to install all of the underfloor metal plates.

This shows the ceiling from below and shows the metal plates that have been fixed to the underside of the floorboards. The flow and return pipes will be installed later.

This shows the metal plate screwed to the underneath of the floorboards. The flow and return pipes get clipped into each side later. After the first fix electrics and plumbing have been installed, insulation will be put between the joists and the ceiling will then be plasterboarded. You can see the 25mm gap we left over the top of the big oak beams to allow the plates to be installed.
A big day today – the footings have gone in for the extension and the porch. Around 20 cubic metres of concrete in 3 separate loads.

The steel mesh has been put into the bottom of the trenches to to reinforce the concrete. It is held up off the bottom by putting half bricks under the mesh.

The concreate is added to highest point of the footings and then pushed around by using a spade (ensuring that the concrete doesn’t go over the top of your wellies!).
Part of the dry stone wall adjoining the newly rebuilt extension had to be dismantled while it was being rebuilt. However, now the building work is complete we can repair the wall. It also makes the site a little more secure since it was relatively easy to get through the wall from the road side.
I have run a piece of damp course down the wall where the dry stone wall meets the building. I have only run this above the level of the damp course in the building. This should help prevent any damp transferring from the dry stone wall to the building above the internal damp course level.
I have tried to use black faced stones wherever I can so that the repair matches the rest of the wall. We have been largely successful at achieving this except for some of the coping stones. If I find some black faced coping stones, I might swap these for the ones we installed today. Since the coping stones are the top course, this is easily done. For now, the job is complete.

Part of the dry stone wall adjoining the rebuilt extension had to be taken down while it was being rebuilt. Now this corner has been repointed the wall can be rebuilt. First job is to clear the weeds and remove the loose stone.

Having cleared the weeds low down, the wall is rebuilt. Avoiding taking too much of it apart. I tend to just dismantle the wall until we reach something solid (and flat).
Although all the windows are now in, we need to sort out the finishing on the inside of the windows. These are a bit of mess – they have been altered a number of times over the years and much of the material has either fallen away or never been in place in the first place.
We have decided to box in the windows on the inside, but to used splayed panels just as they would have done originally. This ensures that the maximum amount of light comes in. However, since each of the windows is subtly different, each will have to be built by hand. Before we progress with all the windows we thought we should get one window completed as a sort of prototype. This would also help us to establish exactly how long it takes to do this job.

The original windows had a splayed finish inside. This ensures that as much light as possible comes in through the windows. We have decided to reinstate this finsih as best we can. Window board has been installed, together with the top and the angled sides. All in waterproof MDF.
We have cleared the land and dug the footings and foundations for the new extension. The intention is that these will be concreted on Saturday morning.
There is a lot of work that has gone into this and the spoil heap is looking quite impressive. Fortunately, we are going to spread this onto the back field to bring the soil level up. This will help with the ground loops for the ground source heat pump as the ground loops need to be 1m under the surface. In some places, we might have struggled to reach this depth. Increasing the ground level is only going to help.

Everyday this area looks different. I daresay that it will look different again once the concrete has been laid. This is due to happen on Saturday.
While we have reinstalled the first floor, we don’t have a staircase yet. So getting upstairs is via a set of ladders. Not great, particularly when you are carrying tools/materials.
So we decided to install some temporary stairs. Since they are going to be there a while, it is probably worth the £150-170 that it would cost. But we would luck and one of the local joiners workshop had some stairs that had been produced for another customer (Joey) and he no longer wanted them.
And all for £50! A bargain.
























