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Trying to plan the electrics

We are going to need to get the details sort out for the electrics so that we can organise the first fix (installing the wiring without any switches or sockets).  We need to get the first fix done before any of the ceilings or walls can be plasterboarded.  So getting the wiring sort is important.

However, it is not just the power and lighting that needs to be sorted out.  What about the network points? telephone points? thermostats? PIR sensors for the alarm? TV points?

With this in mind, we had a go at marking all of the above on a floorplan.  It gets messy very quickly.  Don’t believe me? See below.

What did we learn from this process?

  • You need to understand how each of the rooms are going to be used if you are going to put the services in the right place.  e.g. where is a table/desk going to be placed in each room in order to get the sockets in the right place?  Where would a TV go?  And this might not be where you might put it, but where a potential new owner might place it.
  • Lighting design really needs the input of an architect.  This is  creative process and isn’t simply a case of working out where the pendant light goes in the middle of the ceiling.  I met with our architect this week and they had some good thoughts about lighting ideas.
  • Plan the wiring in such a way to make it as flexible as possible. I will write up more on this later, but for example, bringing the telephone services in via a patch panel means that with a little bit of thought it is possible to “liven” up telephone services in different sockets.  This is a much more flexible approach rather than hardwiring everything.
This shows the potential location for different services on the first floor.  Legend: P=power socket, TV=TV point, E=ethernet, T=telephone, S=lighting switch.  Where there is a number before the letter, this denotes the number of sockets.

This shows the potential location for different services on the first floor. Legend: P=power socket, TV=TV point, E=ethernet, T=telephone, S=lighting switch. Where there is a number before the letter, this denotes the number of sockets.

Cutting the openings from the hall into the kitchen

There are three openings between the hall and kitchen.  Two at ground level (an internal window and a doorway) and one upstairs (a sort of Juliette balcony from Jo’s study).

We have cut the two ground floor openings.  We have cut the openings using a Stihl saw and then have pulled out the masonry (but not before installing a lintel above the opening!). Using a Stihl saw is a little gentler on the wall that bashing it with big hammers and chisels.

You can start to see the jumble of stones that make up the inside of the wall.  It is a fairly fragile structure and needs to be shown a certain level of respect.

The opening on the right is the door from the hall into the kitchen (or at least it will be!).  The opening on the left is a large internal window between hall and kitchen.  What you can see here is the back of the outer set of stones that makes up the wall.

The opening on the right is the door from the hall into the kitchen (or at least it will be!). The opening on the left is a large internal window between hall and kitchen. What you can see here is the back of the outer set of stones that makes up the wall.

The three openings between the hall and the kitchen are shown here, but from the other side of the wall.  The hall wall is to camera right here.

The three openings between the hall and the kitchen are shown here, but from the other side of the wall. The hall wall is to camera right here.

Foundations for the new extension

We are really starting to move into Phase 2 (Building the new extension), even though we have still to finish off Phase 1.

In terms of Phase 2, the barn has been completely demolished and we have now taken off the top soil in preparation for digging the footings.  This is the first time that we have seen the full extent of the Phase 2 extension.  I am not sure what I am meant to think, but it does look big at this stage.  I can’t remember on Grand Designs whether people think their footprint is bigger or smaller than they thought.  I wish I had paid more attention now!

Now the barn has been completely demolished we can start to see the footprint of the new extension.

Now the barn has been completely demolished we can start to see the footprint of the new extension.

Looking at the existing cottages end on, this still looks like a large extension.

Looking at the existing cottages end on, this still looks like a large extension.

Digging the foundations for the new extension

The spoil heap seems to be growing.  Unfortunately, we started it close to the corner of the foundations and now it is going to have to be moved.  But it doesn’t take long with a 4.5 tonne digger!

We have also come across another soakaway.  It is brick-built and matches the other one that we found at the end of last year.  They are probably connected and used as a soakaway for rainwater from the drainpipes.

The spoil heap just keeps on growing!  Zep is checking for any undiscovered pasties!

The spoil heap just keeps on growing! Zep is checking for any undiscovered pasties!

A mixture of soil and waste stone.

A mixture of soil and waste stone.

Looks like this is connected to the other soakaway that we found a few months ago.

Looks like this is connected to the other soakaway that we found a few months ago.

The cost of moving utilities: Water

The water meter is about 200m away.  It is in a field on the other side of the road.  To make matters worth, the meter has very small numbers and is 1.5m down a manhole. 

This causes us a bit of a problem;

  • You can’t read the meter unless you trespass on someone else’s land;
  • You can’t read the numbers on the meter unless you go down the manhole head first and leave you legs dangling in the air;
  • If there is a leak in the pipe between the meter and our property, we are liable even though it isn’t on our land.

All in all, a poor situation.  Talking to Yorkshire Water, it would appear that the meter was installed there (in the 1970’s) because at that point the water main didn’t come any further up the road.  So that explains the odd position of the current water meter.

Yorkshire Water are not interested in moving the meter.  However, the water main does now come up the road, so it is possible to get a new water connection.  Cost? Estimated to be between £1,000 and £2,000 depending on whether they have to close off the road and put in traffic control.  I have paid £100 for them to come up and do a survey so that we can get a more accurate cost.

200m down the road in the footpath you will find the stopcock for the water.  A blue mark on the drystone wall marks it's position.  Apparently, in the late 1970's when this was installed the water main only came this far up the road.

200m down the road in the footpath you will find the stopcock for the water. A blue mark on the drystone wall marks it’s position. Apparently, in the late 1970’s when this was installed the water main only came this far up the road.

On the other side of the drystone wall is an inspection chamber.  Lift the lid and you will find a water meter about 1.5m down.  Unfortunately, the numbers are very small so reading the meter can be a challenge.  The house is just behind the small tree in the centre of the photo.

On the other side of the drystone wall is an inspection chamber. Lift the lid and you will find a water meter about 1.5m down. Unfortunately, the numbers are very small so reading the meter can be a challenge. The house is just behind the small tree in the centre of the photo.

The cost of moving utilities: Gas

There were two gas meters on the property.  One in each of the properties.  Both of the cottages were centrally heated using a gas boiler.

As with the electricity supply, the electricity suppliers are responsible for the meters (and removing them).  The gas carrier (Northern Gas Networks, in our case) is responsible for getting the gas to the meters.

I contact British Gas and E.on to remove the two gas meters.  This only took 2-3 weeks and there was no cost associated with removing the meters.  However, there is a charge for disconnecting the gas main from the meter supply.  We did to get the two gas standpipes from the front of the property.  The cost? £802.

If we decide that we want to reconnect the gas (not sure why we would), there is a connection charge.  This is likely to be significant and takes 10-12 weeks.  This would provide us with the opportunity to move the new supply around to the utility room.  However, the only use we have for has would be if we have a gas hob.  Which we aren’t planning to do.

One of the two gas standpipes remaining in place now the gas meters have been removed.  This will be removed when the gas main is capped off.

One of the two gas standpipes remaining in place now the gas meters have been removed. This will be removed when the gas main is capped off.

Demolishing the barn

The barn is now a thing of the past.  With the aid of a 4.5 tonne digger.  It made quick work of demolishing the stone work that was left and loading the rubble into a dumper.  The spoil heap is now getting pretty impressive.

The stone on the front of the barn will be re-used, however, much of the stone is only good for building dry stone walls.  Fortunately, we have a lot of these to do.

Matt at work with a 4.5 tonne digger. The spoil heap (in the background) gets bigger and bigger.

Matt at work with a 4.5 tonne digger. The spoil heap (in the background) gets bigger and bigger.

Matt at work removing the foundations of the barn.  There wasn't much of a foundation to talk about.

Matt at work removing the foundations of the barn. There wasn’t much of a foundation to talk about.

A 4.5 tonne digger soon makes quick work of demolishing the old barn.

A 4.5 tonne digger soon makes quick work of demolishing the old barn.

This used to be the base of the foundation of the barn.

This used to be the base of the foundation of the barn.

New roof on the rebuilt extension

The roofing felt and lathes are now in place on the rebuilt extension.  Tomorrow the stone slates will be replaced and with any luck the roof will have been completed by the end of this week.  It will make a big difference. 

The sandblasting of the extension is planned for the weekend so that we can get on with the pointing of the extension next week.

 

Felted and battened and ready for the stone slates to go back on tomorrow.  This should be done by the end of the week.

Felted and battened and ready for the stone slates to go back on tomorrow. This should be done by the end of the week.

Inside everything has a greenish hue due to the felt on the roof.

Inside everything has a greenish hue due to the felt on the roof.

Looking out of the window in the rebuilt extension.  It feels a bit like camping!

Looking out of the window in the rebuilt extension. It feels a bit like camping!

Cast iron gutters

Six months ago, it would have been difficult to imagine that there was anything interesting to say about gutters.  But here we are!

We decided to go with cast iron gutters for a number of reasons.  Firstly, because they fit in with the age of the property, but secondly, because the foundry is 2 miles away in Holmfirth.  Although the property had aluminum gutters when we bought it, it probably did have cast iron gutters at some point (there are existing cast iron down pipes).  There cast iron gutters would have most likely come from the same foundry that we are now using to supply the replacements.

It turned out that the gutters specificed by the architect were probably a little too small for the size of roof, so we had to look into putting up larger gutters.  The choice of gutters runs into tens, if not hundreds.  It isn’t like going to B&Q!

I went down to the foundry today and narrowed in on what I thought were the two most likely choices.  It isn’t easy to tell which is the right one unless you look at it in place on the roof.  The chaps at the foundry kindly let me two lengths which the builders held in position, so we could see what they look like!

The choice: 6″ x 4″ No.46 gutters. 

The number “46” refers to the fact that this was the 46th pattern of gutter that they ever made!

Two 6ft lengths of cast iron gutters.  The one on the left is 6" x 4" No. 46 and the one on the right 5" x 4" No. 46.  And the winner is......the one of the left.

Two 6ft lengths of cast iron gutters. The one on the left is 6″ x 4″ No. 46 and the one on the right 5″ x 4″ No. 46. And the winner is……the one of the left.

More progress on the rebuilt extension and the pointing

It has been cooler today than for the last couple of weeks.  There is even rain forecast for the next couple of days.

The builders have taken the opportunity to push ahead on the gable end on the main house as well as getting the woodwork ready for the roofers who return on Wednesday.  With any luck, the roof will be back on the rebuilt extension by the end of this week.

The roof rafters are in and the holes have been cut for the two Velux rooflights.

The roof rafters are in and the holes have been cut for the two Velux rooflights.

The weather has been cooler today, so we have been able to make a start on repointing the gable end of the main building (in the background).

The weather has been cooler today, so we have been able to make a start on repointing the gable end of the main building (in the background).

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