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Almost completing the roof on the outbuilding

The roof on the outbuilding was completed on Saturday.  At about 7:30pm – well after the sun went down.  The verges (where the sloping edge of the roof meets the wall) were mortared in after dark.  That is my excuse and I am sticking to it.  Fortunately, it was only the rough coat and the final finish was put on my Paddy the following day.

I guess we just push our luck too far today and we ran out of time.  It takes a good hour or so to clean up and pack everything away.  Getting out the cement mixer means another 30 minutes at the end of the day cleaning it out!

Anyway today, we altered the top two rows of slates so that they were closer to the top wall.  A bit of miscommunication between the guy putting on the slates and the folks building the top wall meant that we ended up with a 4” gap between the top of the wall and the top row of slates.  A couple of minor adjustments and we were done.  But it did take a couple of hours.

Next job was to put the stone slabs (called Water tables) back on the top of the wall.  These are large enough to bridge the gap between the wall and the top row of slates.  They are mortared into place and set so that they tilt slightly backwards (in line with the slop of the roof) to prevent water running down the front wall.

The main issue with the water tables is their weight.  They are roughly 1m long and 750cms wide and about 75cm thick.  Solid stone weighing it at around 60-80kgs each.  These had to be man handled 12ft into the air and placed on top of the wall.  Fortunately, we had some small scaffolding towers, but even then it was a struggle.  We repurposed a large flagstone from the top of the side wall to make up for the gap where the chimney had been.

But by 6pm, we were pretty much all done.  The light was starting to fade and then it started raining.  But we had had a good day and achieved what we had set out to.

Day 2 of reslating the outbuilding

Yesterday, the roofing felt and laths were installed. Today, the slates are going back on.  We are replacing the occasional broken, or poor condition, slate with slates off the lean to.

Biggest ones at the bottom.  Smallest ones at the top.

Biggest ones at the bottom. Smallest ones at the top.

Revealing the roof trusses

This weekend we took down the ceilings and the ceiling joists in the larger cottage.  This time we got it right and are taking down the ceilings before taking out the floor!  We have made life hard work for ourselves in the cottage next door as there now is no upper floor.  We are going to have to use a scaffolding tower inside to take the upper ceiling down!

The larger cottage is essentially two cottages that have been knocked into one.  Thus, there are two separate lofts with dividing walls and a roof truss in each.  The original ceiling is tongue and groove pine, however, I don’t think this is original to the building – I reckon it was probably a later addition in Victorian times.  This pine cladding has subsequently been plasterboarded over.  In addition, above the ceiling was around 300mm of loft insulation.  We took part of the ceiling down around the access hatch by first taking down the plasterboard, then taking the loft insulation out.  We then climbed up inside the loft (yuck) and the stamped on the ceiling below to bring down the pine cladding (making sure that we didn’t come down with the ceiling).  Once the ceiling was down, it was a case of removing the old ceiling joists.  Most of the joists came out without any trouble, some of the more stubborn ones needed to be cut through with a saw first.

Both cottages have what is called a “King post truss”.  This is has a single post from the bottom beam (called a Tie beam) to the apex of the truss.  The truss in No. 10 looks exactly as you would expect.  The purlins (that run horizontally between the two end walls and the truss) are again what you would expect for a property of this age.  However, the truss in No. 9 is very different. We aren’t quite sure what has happened to the tie beam, but it certainly isn’t beefy enough to carry the weight of the roof.  Two of the purlins have been replaced with sawn timber that is bolted to the truss – again, looks like a Victorian addition.  The woodwork in No. 9 is going to need quite a bit of attention!

With the ceiling and the ceiling joists removed, you can now see the King post truss and the purlins that make up the roof.

With the ceiling and the ceiling joists removed, you can now see the King post truss and the purlins that make up the roof.

The king post truss in No. 9.  It needs some attention - the main beam isn't really big enough and we can't work out what has happened here.  The purlins in the background show original ones to the right and new(ish) ones to the left.  The new ones are sawn wood that has been bolted to the truss - they also have been set vertically rather than angled with the slope of the roof.  And if that wasn't enough, the purlin on the camera side of the roof (that you can just see through the truss on the left) has a massive crack in it.

The king post truss in No. 9. It needs some attention – the main beam isn’t really big enough and we can’t work out what has happened here. The purlins in the background show original ones to the right and new(ish) ones to the left. The new ones are sawn wood that has been bolted to the truss – they also have been set vertically rather than angled with the slope of the roof. And if that wasn’t enough, the purlin on the camera side of the roof (that you can just see through the truss on the left) has a massive crack in it.

This photo shows the detail of one of the purlins in No. 10.  The ends of the purlins are pegged through the truss and the timber is very roughly sawn - often only on one side.  With this purlin, you can still see the bark attached to the the timber.

This photo shows the detail of one of the purlins in No. 10. The ends of the purlins are pegged through the truss and the timber is very roughly sawn – often only on one side. With this purlin, you can still see the bark attached to the the timber.

Felt and laths on the outbuilding

Well, the snow arrived on Monday and so did Nipper and John (another John, not the same one that worked on the walls).  It was bitterly cold, but it didn’t prevent them from getting the felt on the roof and the laths installed.  The positioning of the laths depends on the height of each course of stone slates – bigger ones at the bottom, smaller ones at the top.  Each of the courses has to overlap to ensure the water doesn’t get through, so it takes a little while to sort out.  Glad it wasn’t me doing this work today!

Monday morning and the snow has arrived.  Nipper has worked out the courses and this determines how far apart the lathes need to be placed.  It is a cold day to be working on a roof, even if it is not 30ft up!

Monday morning and the snow has arrived. Nipper has worked out the courses and this determines how far apart the lathes need to be placed. It is a cold day to be working on a roof, even if it is not 30ft up!

New woodwork for the outbuilding

All of the spars and purlins were removed and replaced.  The existing purlins were nowhere near as big as they needed to be and at some point the original purlin had been supplemented by an additional piece of wood.  All very poorly done and still nowhere need adequate.  Two of the spars in the middle bay had snapped under the sheer weight of the stone slates on the roof.  So we have increased the total number of spars as well as increasing the size of the timber.  We have installed two purlins right across the outbuilding, rather than the one that was there previously. And again we have increased the size of the timber used to 6×4 (although they are really two 6×2’s bolted together – 6×2 are held in stock as standard treated timber – we would have had to order treated 6×4).

The two end walls had to have new holes cut for the purlins and this has meant that they have needed to be repaired to a certain extent.  It is a single skin building and large parts of the upper courses were fairly loose.  Paddy and John have done an excellent job at cutting the stones to fit around the purlins – it puts the rest of the wall to shame, although I suspect that a little bit of pointing will help both improve the stability of the wall as well as it’s appearance.

Paddy and Jon repairing the end walls, Richard fitting the new sofit.  The big stone slabs are the "water tables" that fit on the very top of the wall on the front of the building.

Paddy and Jon repairing the end walls, Richard fitting the new sofit. The big stone slabs are the “water tables” that fit on the very top of the wall on the front of the building.

You can see the top of the end wall where it has been made good and now lines up perfectly with the slope of the spars. If you look along the ling of the roof it is perfectly flat.  The woodwork was put in so accurately that one spar was cut as a template and then all the other spars cut from it.  They all fitted perfectly.

You can see the top of the end wall where it has been made good and now lines up perfectly with the slope of the spars. If you look along the line of the roof it is perfectly flat. The woodwork was put in so accurately that one spar was cut as a template and then all the other spars cut from it. They all fitted perfectly.

Looking along the line of the roof, you can see how flat it is.  You can also see the two holes that have been cut for the new purlins and the stones that have been cut to fit.  The larger hole to the left is an original hole that was for ventilation - this end of the building was used as an outside toilet.  This is a standard design for this part of Yorkshire and we decided to leave it as it was.

Looking along the line of the roof, you can see how flat it is. You can also see the two holes that have been cut for the new purlins and the stones that have been cut to fit. The larger hole to the left is an original hole that was for ventilation – this end of the building was used as an outside toilet. This is a standard design for this part of Yorkshire and we decided to leave it as it was.

The other end wall showing the two holes where the new purlins have been installed.

The other end wall showing the two holes where the new purlins have been installed.

Paddy and John reparing the old outbuilding

Temporary farmyard gates

Now the building work has started, we have decided to put up a gate across the front of the farmyard.  Since this is only really going to be a temporary arrangement, there is little point in purchasing an expensive new gate.  However, we were lucky enough to have a gate in the back field together with a side gate.  These two gates together are enough to stretch across the farmyard entrance.  With the gates padlocked together, the only issue is that the postman can’t get to the letter boxes to deliver the mail.  The solutions? A letter box on the side of the wall next to the gate.

This gate was originally on the entrance to the field at the back of the property, but we have now moved it to the front for added security.

This gate was originally on the entrance to the field at the back of the property, but we have now moved it to the front for added security.

The problem with putting a gate at the front of the farmyard is that the postman cannot get to the letter boxes.  This seemed like the simplest solution.

The problem with putting a gate at the front of the farmyard is that the postman cannot get to the letter boxes. This seemed like the simplest solution.

Re-roofing the old outbuilding

At the front of the property, there is an old outbuilding.  It is split into three separate rooms.  The end room is being used as a log store.  The middle room is being used as a store-room.  The other end is the original toilet for the property when it was built-in the 1700’s. 

The "waves" in the roof indicate where the internal walls are inside.  There have been multiple attempts at repairing this roof, but none of them have been done correctly.  We are going to remove the slates, replacing the underlying woodwork and then reslate it with the original slates (plus a few off the lean to to replace broken slates).

The “waves” in the roof indicate where the internal walls are inside. There have been multiple attempts at repairing this roof, but none of them have been done correctly. We are going to remove the slates, replacing the underlying woodwork and then reslate it with the original slates (plus a few off the lean to to replace broken slates).

The main problem with the outbuilding is the roof.  This consists of stone slates (known as Yorkshire Greys) and although the outbuilding is small (8m x 3m) with a monopitch roof, there is probably something in the order of 4 tonnes of stone slates on the roof.  The sheer weight of the slates over the years has taken its toll and some of the wooden rafters had broken under the weight.  The only solution is to remove the slates and replace the woodwork.

When we removed the slates a number of them had delaminated due to the frost penetrating the stone slates.  Fortunately, the lean-to to the side of the house is going to be demolished and it has similar slates on the roof.  So, hopefully, we should be able to salvage enough slates to be able to re-roof the outbuilding.

Nipper inspecting the top part of the roof.  The chimney has been dismantled and is piled up by the bottom of the ladder.

Nipper inspecting the top part of the roof. The chimney has been dismantled and is piled up by the bottom of the ladder.

Nipper and Richard inspecting what is left of the woodwork with the slates removed.

Nipper and Richard inspecting what is left of the woodwork with the slates removed.

Stone slates removed from the roof and stack according to courses.

Stone slates removed from the roof and stack according to courses.

It only took around 3 hours to remove all the slates off the two outbuildings.  The slates were stacked neatly according to the courses on the roof.  Smaller slates are used at the top of the roof and then the slates get bigger further down the slope. 

Over the weekend the existing rafters were removed.  More wood for the bonfire.  Two lengths of wood were placed on the top and bottom walls.  These make up the “wall plates” that the rafter are attached to.  By making sure that the wall plates are level and parallel, each of the rafters should be exactly the same when installed.  This makes redoing the woodwork that much quicker and easier.  The general building work here was done by Paddy and John.

The woodwork has now been removed and the top two courses of the front wall rebuilt.

The woodwork has now been removed and the top two courses of the front wall rebuilt.

The two wall plates (the timbers that the spars are going to sit on) have been installed and double checked to ensure that they are both level and parallel to each other. A template spar was cut and used to check that it fitted all along the wall plates.

The two wall plates (the timbers that the spars are going to sit on) have been installed and double checked to ensure that they are both level and parallel to each other. A template spar was cut and used to check that it fitted all along the wall plates.

The top two courses on the front wall had to be rebuilt as the stonework was loose.  We also took the opportunity to remove the old chimney that is no longer in use.  Once the outbuilding is re-roofed it will need to be re-pointed.  With the roof removed, the structure is very fragile and needs to be treated with care.

 

Removing the base of the last shed

Shed #3 was removed a couple of weeks ago.  It was a big shed – twice the size of the others – and it took all day to remove all but the base. This base is just behind the outbuilding and tomorrow the plan is to strip the roof therefore it needs to go.  The plan was to remove the base in the morning and then spend the rest of the day dry stone walling.  The weather was lovely today, particularly in the afternoon.  Even sunshine!  However, it took all day to remove the shed base.   I can’t believe that it took so long.  However, when you look at the bonfire (remember this was only burnt down yesterday), you realise exactly how much wood there was left in the base.

I didn’t get time to set the bonfire, so that will have to wait until another day.

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More stripping out

After all the progress made previously, yesterday was a frustratingly slow day.  It was really a day full of “tidying up loose ends”.

With no power to the gas boiler, it was time to drain the heating so that we can remove the radiators and associated pipework.  There is a gas fake log fire in the kitchen and this still works so at least there is some heat.  It does take long to drain the heating and, not surprisingly, the fluid is amazingly black.

Now the job is to remove the pipework from upstairs.  The floor here is proper floorboards rather than chipboard like next door.  It takes a bit longer to take the boards up and cut out the pipework.  Some of this will be easier to remove when we take the ceiling down in underneath.

As we have removed all of the partitions upstairs, there is a lot timber that needs to got rid of.  We tend to burn the wood frequently, otherwise the bonfire is just too big.  While the fire is burning, I do some odd jobs around the place: removing one of the satellite dishes, taking down some of the old plastic waste pipes and removing disused wiring from the front of the building.  All jobs that need to be done, but nothing that you can really look at at the end of the day and think “Wow, that is a job well done”.  Ho hum.  Maybe tomorrow will be different.

Stripping out the larger cottage

I am off work this week which means more time to spend on the renovation

Day 2 of stripping out the larger cottage.  I was going to work on the dry stone wall, but rain soon put an end to that idea. So inside working is the order of the day.

Today it was all about removing the bathroom and partitions upstairs.  We are getting quite good at this now.  By the end of the day, the upstairs are cleared out.

This cottage is much nearer to the skip and this makes life a lot easier (not to mention much quicker).

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