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Removing fence posts – the Top Gear approach

Well, if you have some fence posts in the garden to remove, how do you remove them?

Easy, you put a chain around the base and attach the end to a 4×4. Engage 4 wheel drive and give it some “welly”.  Paddy and Jonny have been working on the house for the last couple of days.  They both have 4x4s.  We have our new (old) 4×4 pickup.  So it quickly resorted to a competition!

First attach the chain to the bottom of the post

First attach the chain to the bottom of the post

Then attach the other end to a 4x4

Then attach the other end to a 4×4

Then give it some "welly"!

Then give it some “welly”!

It's not just the post, but the concrete base that is the challenge

It’s not just the post, but the concrete base that is the challenge

My go!

My go!

Jonny at the wheel!

Jonny at the wheel!

The fence pulling team!

The fence pulling team!

Conservatory removed

We were quoted £1500 to remove and dispose of the conservatory.  We advertised it on Freecycle (www.freecycle.org) and got a lot of interest.  We probably got in excess of 12-15 people who wanted to take it.  Today the new owners of the conservatory turned up, dismantled it and took it away.   

We still have the brick built base to demolish, but effectively the conservatory has been removed at next to zero cost courtesy of Freecycle.

Just the brick base of the conservatory remains.  The outside wall had not been plastered, but plasterboard had been attached. This is a result as it is easily removed and should leave little trace.

Just the brick base of the conservatory remains. The outside wall had not been plastered, but plasterboard had been attached. This is a result as it is easily removed and should leave little trace.

Just the brick base left.

Just the brick base left.

It is surprising how much more light comes into the lounge now that the conservatory has been removed.  Only the brick built base remains.  And the lino!

It is surprising how much more light comes into the lounge now that the conservatory has been removed. Only the brick built base remains. And the lino!

Sunday – and more snow!

Well, we tried to dig out part of the farmyard yesterday.  But there is no sign of our hard work today as it is covered again with snow.  And then some extra snow on top.  Just for good measure!

The forecast for the week ahead is cold, but that we have seen the worst of the snow.  We decided that now would be a good time to dig out since it will only freeze if we don’t.  If with the new Pickup, we had to dig some of the bigger snow drift from the front of the yard just to allow us to get off the road.  There were drifts all over the place, although there was generally only about 9 inches of snow on the ground.

Digging out the snow drifts from the front door

Digging out the snow drifts from the front door

Turning the pickup around in the top field

Turning the pickup around in the top field

Splitting the building work into phases

A few weeks back we took a first look at the proposed schedule.  This had been updated after we had received planning permission as well as a little more detailed added.  When we first started talking to the architect about the work, we had in mind that the building work would be complete by Christmas 2013.  At the time, we were surprised how long it was going to take.  Well, you can imagine how surprised we are when the latest completion date is April 2014!

Don’t get me wrong, the plan is what the plan is.  It just seems surprising that we aren’t going to start any building work until August.  Particularly when the existing cottages are already 75-80% stripped out.  If the stripping out work is finished by the 1st May, then it means building work effectively stops for 3 months.  The delay is due to the detailed work required for building regs, preparing tender documents and deciding on the main contractor.

In an attempt to reduce this delay, we have decided to split the building work into 2 phases:

  • Phase 1: Renovation of the existing cottages. This means re-roofing the existing main building, making the new internal openings, installing flooring (ground level and first floor) and installing new windows.  There will be no “first fix” for the services, insulation of the walls or roof, or doors installed.  This will all be done as part of Phase 2;
  • Phase 2: Extension of the barn plus refurb throughout the entire building.  This will ensure that the internals and services are all installed as one as well as reducing the overall cost.

 

By splitting it this way, we can start on Phase 1 while all the final details are being worked out for Phase 2.  And by doing all of the internals as part of Phase 2, this should reduce the chance that later changes need to be made to work completed as part of Phase 1.  At this point, I am not sure if this approach will reduce the overall length of the project – it feels as if it should – but we will have to wait until the detailed planning is complete.

Each of the phases will go out to tender and the intention is that we should be in a position for a main contractor to start work on Phase 1 during May.  For this to happen, the tender documents need to be ready the week after Easter.  There is still work to do on all the drawings, but there is still some work to do inside the cottages in preparation for the building work.

Gutters and down pipes

These all need to be replaced and ideally in cast iron.  Surprise, surprise, we have found that there is a cast iron foundry in Holmfirth (just down the road).  J & JW Longbottom Ltdrain-water-shoe seem to produce a wide variety of traditional gutters and rainwater pipes.

The major issue with cast iron is going to be the cost, but it is something that we need to investigate before discounting it.  There are other alternatives such as cast aluminium and plastic, but it would be good to use a traditional material if possible.  It would also be good to make sure that the gutter put onto the outbuilding matches that used on the main house.

This is just another thing to go on the list of things to do!

Goodbye Astra Estate, Hello L200 Pickup

We held onto the Astra Estate when I bought a new car last year.  The thinking was that we would use the Astra while we were doing the house renovation and then sell it when we had finished. However, the Astra has turned out to be less useful than we thought.

While it has a lot of space inside, it can’t really handle the weight.  I picked up a dozen bags of sand last week and that was really about all that you could put in it.  It also isn’t that good with large bulky items (e.g. big bags of old loft insulation, old sheets of corrugated steel), so we have decided to sell it and replace it with a pickup truck.  Again, we will only keep it for the duration of the renovation, but hopefully it will be a little more practical for our purposes.

It is a ten-year old Mitsbushi L2oo pickup – 130,000 miles, 4×4, single cab, 1 tonne load.

If you want to take a pickup truck (which is classified as a light commercial vehicle) to the dump, you need to get a special permit from the council.  Many councils do not allow commercial vehicles into their refuse collection centres.  So if you own one of these vehicles for personal use, you need to apply for a special permit.  You can find the Kirkless application form here.  It costs nothing to apply for.

Now the only problem I have is that the snow is preventing me from collecting it from the dealer.  Ho hum.

Bought, just waiting for the snow to stop so we can go and pick it up.

Bought, just waiting for the snow to stop so we can go and pick it up.

Snow stops play

Well, it snowed yesterday – a lot – probably 4-6 inches and it is snowing again today.  We did manage to get out – we have 4×4’s – but the roads are pretty treacherous.  It is more to do with the other drivers who really shouldn’t be out!  Besides which I ended up having to push a couple of cars when I went out first thing – my short trip to the shops ended up taking 45 mins!

Having been out this morning, I was going to dig out the drive up to the farm, but it would be a mammoth task.  And since it is still snowing, I have no idea how long the cleared area would remain.  I tried yesteday to get onto the drive with a 4×4 but with little success.  So I decided (very reluctantly) to give in to the weather today.  No building work today.

Jo and Zep walking up to the farm in the March snow.

Jo and Zep walking up to the farm in the March snow.

View from Upper Hagg Road.  23rd March 2013.

View from Upper Hagg Road. 23rd March 2013.

Snow - March 2013.  We had around 9 inches, but it had drifted in places up to a couple of feet.

Snow – March 2013. We had around 9 inches, but it had drifted in places up to a couple of feet.

Clearing the wall adjoining Hagg Wood

The lower field has a dry stone wall that adjoins some woodland.  The woodland is largely protected by tree presevation orders (TPOs), but the undergrowth is now encroaching on our land and is starting to damage the wall.  Jo decided it was time to start cutting some of this back in preparation for the wall being repaired (not quite sure when I am going to find the time for that!). 

We haven’t touched any of the trees, but it is largely the holly that has been removed.  There are a number of dead trees, or live trees with dead branches – that also need to be cut back.  It is going to be a long job, but at least we have made a start!

All together, there is proabably 80-100 metres of wall hidden in this undergrowth.  It didn't take Jo long to clear some of it, but already there is an impressive pile of cuttings.

All together, there is proabably 80-100 metres of wall hidden in this undergrowth. It didn’t take Jo long to clear some of it, but already there is an impressive pile of cuttings.

A very old oak tree with dead branches that has damaged the wall.  This will be a case of removing the dead branches and then repairing the wall.

A very old oak tree with dead branches that has damaged the wall. This will be a case of removing the dead branches and then repairing the wall.

With some of the undergrowth removed, you can start to see the state of the dry stone wall.  It doesn't look brilliant, but we might be able to get away with not having to completely rebuild it.  The wall in the centre of this picture has a few big stones too far up the wall - it almost looks as if it is upside down with smaller stones at the bottom and larger ones on the top!

With some of the undergrowth removed, you can start to see the state of the dry stone wall. It doesn’t look brilliant, but we might be able to get away with not having to completely rebuild it. The wall in the centre of this picture has a few big stones too far up the wall – it almost looks as if it is upside down with smaller stones at the bottom and larger ones on the top!

Removing the fireplace in No. 10

Before we start, the fireplace in No. 10 is very similar to the fireplace in No. 8, so this time we know what to expect.  The fireplace surround is made up of stone blocks.  Very 1970’s, although I suspect it isn’t that old.  The fireplaces are actually small inglenook type fireplaces which have been bricked up so that the opening is much smaller.  Small enough to fit a gas fire.  So the job at hand is to remove the stone fireplace surround and then dig out all the rubble in the fireplace.  This good news is that No. 10 is closer to the skip than No. 8, so we don’t have to take the rubble as far.  The other good news is that we have some planks that means that we can barrow the rubble straight into the skip rather than using plastic tubs.  But it is still time-consuming and it is amazing how much comes out of a smaller opening.  The rubble is mainly old bricks, mortar, some rather nice Victorian tiles and a smashed up cast iron fireplace that had been put up the sides of the chimney to make it smaller.  All mixed in with a fair amount of soot.  What I didn’t inhale, I wore.  Yuck.  It took two baths on Sunday night to get rid of it all!  Still, it was a job well done and a job that we don’t have to do again – that was the last of the old fireplaces that need to be removed.

The fireplace in No. 10.  This was probably all the rage 30-40 years ago, but it has to go.  There is a TV stand constructed from the same material to camera left.  It comes apart fairly easily (with the aid of a sledge hammer) and all of the stone will make it's way into the dry stone wall in the orchard.  As long as the sawn edges of the stone do not face outwards, no one will know. Except you, of course, as you read it on this blog.

The fireplace in No. 10. This was probably all the rage 30-40 years ago, but it has to go. There is a TV stand constructed from the same material to camera left. It comes apart fairly easily (with the aid of a sledge hammer) and all of the stone will make it’s way into the dry stone wall in the orchard. As long as the sawn edges of the stone do not face outwards, no one will know. Except you, of course, as you read it on this blog.

The fireplace surround all gone and the contents of the inglenook emptied out.  There must have been 10 or more barrows of rubble in there.  All mixed up with 200 years of soot.

The fireplace surround all gone and the contents of the inglenook emptied out. There must have been 10 or more barrows of rubble in there. All mixed up with 200 years of soot.

The original fireplace revealed.  The two sides are stone slabs on end.  The top is a stone slab laid vertical between them.  The hearth is made up of flagstones.  Like the rest of the floor, although much of it has been covered up with a sort of asphalt material.  Presumably, to keep the damp out.

The original fireplace revealed. The two sides are stone slabs on end. The top is a stone slab laid vertical between them. The hearth is made up of flagstones. Like the rest of the floor, although much of it has been covered up with a sort of asphalt material. Presumably, to keep the damp out.

Finally completing the roof on the outbuilding!

Sunday was meant to be the worst day of the weekend and it ended up being the best.  Yesterday we had tried to get everything done because we thought the weather was going to turn bad.  It didn’t.  The good news though is that we have less work to do today!

In terms of the outbuilding roof, it is a case of putting on the sand and cement collars.  This is the band of mortar at the top of the wall and running in parallel to the roof line.  This is made using a very strong mortar mix (1 part building sand: 1 part cement: 1 part silver sand).  This gives a much stronger and smoother finish. This requires an expert, so this is a job for Paddy.  The pointing (filling in the gaps between each row of stones) of the end walls will be done using the same mix.  If it is different (and even if a different brand of cement is used) the finish/colour of the mortar will be different.  We add a frost protector to the mortar when it is mixed.

While Paddy is doing this, we get on with taking out the fireplace in No. 10.  During one of the breaks, Paddy gives me a lesson in how to point the wall.  Nothing fancy.  Just a flat finish.  I am going to have a go at pointing the end walls.  I will leave the front wall to Paddy.  Now all I did to do is find the time – pointing is exceptionally time-consuming.

This is the east end of the buidling.  This houses the outside toilet.  The large hole is for ventilation (a standard design in this part of Yorkshire).  You can also see the bricked up small doors towards the right hand side.  These were for scooping out the contents.  The original building dates from around 1750 and we suspect that these toilets went out of use around 100 years later.  That's alot of "scooping out"!

This is the east end of the buidling. This houses the outside toilet. The large hole is for ventilation (a standard design in this part of Yorkshire). You can also see the bricked up small doors towards the right hand side. These were for scooping out the contents. The original building dates from around 1750 and we suspect that these toilets went out of use around 100 years later. That’s alot of “scooping out”!

This end of the wall faces South-West and gets the worst of the weather.  The weather has taken it's toll on the pointing and from inside the outbuilding you can see sunlight between  the stones.  Notice the sand and cement collar along the top of the wall follosing the edge of the slates. You can see the "Water tables" right on the top of the wall - angled slightly back to stop the water from running down the front of the wall.

This end of the wall faces South-West and gets the worst of the weather. The weather has taken it’s toll on the pointing and from inside the outbuilding you can see sunlight between the stones. Notice the sand and cement collar along the top of the wall follosing the edge of the slates. You can see the “Water tables” right on the top of the wall – angled slightly back to stop the water from running down the front of the wall.

The roof now complete.  We still have to point all the stone work as well as putting up a rainwater gutter.  The felt (the white material at the bottom of the roof) will be cut when the gutter is put on.  The felt will just be tucked into the gutter.

The roof now complete. We still have to point all the stone work as well as putting up a rainwater gutter. The felt (the white material at the bottom of the roof) will be cut when the gutter is put on. The felt will just be tucked into the gutter.

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