Hagg Leys Farm

Author: stephen (Page 27 of 61)

Ashlar blocks

November 3, 2013 /

We tried to install one of the large ashlar blocks in the new extension on Friday.  Although we could get it fairly close by using the telehandler, we couldn’t then get it off the telehandler and into position.  It was simply too heavy.

That was Friday.  On Saturday, following some advice from the quarry, the builders used some lifting straps around the blocks and lifted them into position. 

There are some even larger blocks of ashlar to be moved later in the build, but I suspect that the builders were relieved when these three stones went in undamaged.

There are three large pieces of ashlar that make up the base of the custom window in the extension. This one peice must weigh 300 - 400 kg. Getting it into position is not easy, particularly without damanging it. In the end we had to give up. We could get it so far on the telehandler, but then we couldn't get it off and into position. It needs a re-think.

There are three large pieces of ashlar that make up the base of the custom window in the extension. This one peice must weigh 300 – 400 kg. Getting it into position is not easy, particularly without damanging it. In the end we had to give up. We could get it so far on the telehandler, but then we couldn’t get it off and into position. It needs a re-think.

The ashlar blocks and the oak trusses are now in position in the new extension.

The ashlar blocks and the oak trusses are now in position in the new extension.

This took 2 attempts, but the builders finally worked out how to get these three large blocks of ashlar into positioin. There are steps butting up to this part of the building, hence, the use of blocks to the rifht. The six inch plastic pipe is for the air intake for the log burning stove in the lounge.

This took 2 attempts, but the builders finally worked out how to get these three large blocks of ashlar into positioin. There are steps butting up to this part of the building, hence, the use of blocks to the rifht. The six inch plastic pipe is for the air intake for the log burning stove in the lounge.

Assembling the oak trusses

November 3, 2013 /

This should be a fairly simple task given that we know that the pieces already fit together.  However, the sheer weight of the oak pieces plus the fact that this is now being done off scaffolding while it is raining, just makes the job a little more challenging.

However, by the close of play on Friday, two out of three of the trusses has been assembled.  The third truss (the one in the kitchen) will be assembled on Monday morning.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

You can see the oak pegs that secure the purlins in position. The tie beam for the kitchen truss is now in position, but the rest of the truss will be assembled on Monday.

You can see the oak pegs that secure the purlins in position. The tie beam for the kitchen truss is now in position, but the rest of the truss will be assembled on Monday.

The two oak trusses in the lounge in position. The ridge beam needs to be added to the top, but this is essentially now complete. Built using traditional techniques with no nails or screws holding it together.

The two oak trusses in the lounge in position. The ridge beam needs to be added to the top, but this is essentially now complete. Built using traditional techniques with no nails or screws holding it together.

Getting the new tie beams into position

November 3, 2013 /

The tie beams are the large horizontal beams that form the base of the truss (the bottom of the triangle).  We have three to get into position.  Each probably weighs around 500 kgs, so they take some moving.

The first one is lifted into position above the kitchen using the telehandler.  No such luck with the other two.  We have to use a mechanical winch to lift these into position. 

In all three cases, the final positioning is done using brute force (and a sledgehammer).

This is the large tie beam (the horizontal beam on the bottom of the truss) for the kitchen. This one we managed to get in position using the telehandler. Unfortunately, the telehandler would not reach for the ones in the lounge.

This is the large tie beam (the horizontal beam on the bottom of the truss) for the kitchen. This one we managed to get in position using the telehandler. Unfortunately, the telehandler would not reach for the ones in the lounge.

A mechanical winch is used to lift the tie beam for the lounge truss into position. Once at the right height, the beam can be wheeled into position. Winches similar to these are used for removing engines from cars.

A mechanical winch is used to lift the tie beam for the lounge truss into position. Once at the right height, the beam can be wheeled into position. Winches similar to these are used for removing engines from cars.

The beam is now at the right height and is ready to be manhandled into position. The weather isn't helping.

The beam is now at the right height and is ready to be manhandled into position. The weather isn’t helping.

Installing the oak trusses

November 3, 2013 /

The first thing to do is take apart and number the parts for the trusses.  They have been built off site and have started to arrive on Friday.  We were hoping to start on the assembly of this earlier in the week, but we were defeated by the weather.

All of the oak has been treated with Osmo UV Protection Oil to prevent the weather damaging or marking the wood.  This also added to the time required.

The oak trusses have been built off site in an industrial unit. Today they arrived on site.

The oak trusses have been built off site in an industrial unit. Today they arrived on site.

As well as the three large tie beams, there are a number of other oak pieces that make up the trusses. All of these bits were made in an industrial unit and then numbered and taken apart. We will reassemble on site in their final position.

As well as the three large tie beams, there are a number of other oak pieces that make up the trusses. All of these bits were made in an industrial unit and then numbered and taken apart. We will reassemble on site in their final position.

Remaining oak arrives

October 30, 2013 /

I thought we had seen the last of the oak deliveries, but apparently not. 

This is for the handrail that goes above the parapet wall in the hall (the large 150mm x 150mm sections).  The remainder is for the canopy over the front porch.  There are some big pieces of oak here.  The new oak trusses will arrive on site later this week and we will probably see them go into position before the weekend (weather permitting).

The square peices are for a (very) chunky handrail on the parapet wall in the hall. The three large pieces are for the master bedroom roof. The remainder is for the truss that will support that canopy on the porch. This is all being built, sanded and treated in an industrial unit before being brought onsite

The square peices are for a (very) chunky handrail on the parapet wall in the hall. The three large pieces are for the master bedroom roof. The remainder is for the truss that will support that canopy on the porch. This is all being built, sanded and treated in an industrial unit before being brought onsite

Steelwork installed

October 30, 2013 /

The steel work that bridges that gap above the bi-folding doors and the large oak window in the extension has finally been installed.  The poor weather yesterday meant that there were a couple of attempts to get the welding done, but with no luck.

Today, the weather improved and we got the steels welded in place.  These are needed so that we can install the oak roof trusses later in the week. Many thanks to the folks at Bridge Fabrications (http://www.bridgefabrications.co.uk/) for being so flexible about getting this work done.

There are two sets of bifolding doors in the extension with a large square oak window in the middle. Two large steel beams span this gap and are welded in the middle. The steel won't be seen when finished, but the oak trusses for the new roof rest on it.

There are two sets of bifolding doors in the extension with a large square oak window in the middle. Two large steel beams span this gap and are welded in the middle. The steel won’t be seen when finished, but the oak trusses for the new roof rest on it.

Lighting computer

October 30, 2013 /

With the first fix electrics completely and the plastering well underway in the old cottages, it won’t be long before we are ready for the second fix.  This means installing all of the switches, sockets and light fittings.  Getting the computer configured that will run all of this will not be far behind.

On the basis that I haven’t done this before, I thought it might be wise to get the kit configured on my desk before installing it in the new house.  It also means that I get to familiarise myself with it.  Sadly, with the poor weather recently, I have been glad that I have some thing to do indoors.  That said, it is going to take some time to get this stuff configured.  In reality, we will only get it 80-90% configured now – the rest will be done as it gets installed.

I just hope that I can get my head around this and get it programmed.  In the first instance, I will just be pleased if I can get it to turn the lights on and off.  The fancy stuff can come later.

I am on a training course next week, so hopefully I will know a bit more by the end.  Here’s hoping!

This is the majority of the kit that will be need to control the lighting in the new house. I have set it up temporarily so that I can get it configured before it is installed.

This is the majority of the kit that will be need to control the lighting in the new house. I have set it up temporarily so that I can get it configured before it is installed.

The green box is the computer, the other boxes are needed to control the switches and lights.

The green box is the computer, the other boxes are needed to control the switches and lights.

Plastering

October 28, 2013 /

In the last week, we have completely plastered two of the rooms on the first floor.  In addition, we have boarded out most of the downstairs ready to plaster. 

At the weekend, we made a start on plastering my study and the adjoining cloakroom.  It will take 3-4 days before the plaster is dry enough to paint.  But the rooms are already transformed.

This room is a really odd shape, but it all adds to the character of the property. I am so glad that we increased the size of the windows in here as well as swapping the original steel beam for an oak one! It is going to take 3-4 days for the plaster to dry.

This room is a really odd shape, but it all adds to the character of the property. I am so glad that we increased the size of the windows in here as well as swapping the original steel beam for an oak one! It is going to take 3-4 days for the plaster to dry.

The door on the left is to a WC next to the study. This has been completely plastered.

The door on the left is to a WC next to the study. This has been completely plastered.

This is the downstairs bedroom in the existing cottages. We will plaster around the fireplace. We have boarded around the cellar steps and created a cupboard for the lighting computer (just above the vacuum cleaner).

This is the downstairs bedroom in the existing cottages. We will plaster around the fireplace. We have boarded around the cellar steps and created a cupboard for the lighting computer (just above the vacuum cleaner).

The downstairs bedroom has been boarded out and will be plastered next. You can see to my study beyond.

The downstairs bedroom has been boarded out and will be plastered next. You can see to my study beyond.

Colour scheme

October 27, 2013 /

We have been struggled with the colour scheme in the house for a while, but hopefully we have now cracked it.  We have been using our “prototype window” to test out different colour combinations.

We want to use the same colour scheme throughout the house, so it needs to be relatively neutral as well as working with the existing elements (the green window frames, natural stone and oak beams).

Our natural starting point was the inside of the window reveals.  Since the window frames are already a green colour, we thought a pale green would work.  It does.  However, the large expanses of window reveals mean that there will be a lot of green in every room.  The colour needs to be light as it bounces the light into the room as it comes through the window.

We also thought that magnolia might be the right colour for the walls. 

However, the colour scheme just wasn’t subtle enough.  We have ended up using jasmine white rather than magnolia.  This is a lot lighter and more subtle.  We have also swapped out the pale green for a light taupe colour.  This produces a much subtle colour scheme.  Over time, I am sure that we will change this scheme but for now it seems like a good starting point.

Magnolia on the walls and light green on the inside of the windows. with the amount of window reveals, this has produce quite large expanses of green (even if it is light).

Magnolia on the walls and light green on the inside of the windows. with the amount of window reveals, this has produce quite large expanses of green (even if it is light).

Magnolia on the wall, light green on the inside of the windows and a sort of "khaki" colour on the skirting boards.

Magnolia on the wall, light green on the inside of the windows and a sort of “khaki” colour on the skirting boards.

Having decided that the light green on the inside of the window reveals wasn't right. And also that khaki wasn't the right colour for skirtings! We have tried a couple of natural taupe colours - a light one and a darker one. You can see the test patches here on the skirting, the left-hand window revela and on one of the mullion covers. You can also see the difference between magnolia and jasmine white on the wall to camera left.

Having decided that the light green on the inside of the window reveals wasn’t right. And also that khaki wasn’t the right colour for skirtings! We have tried a couple of natural taupe colours – a light one and a darker one. You can see the test patches here on the skirting, the left-hand window revela and on one of the mullion covers. You can also see the difference between magnolia and jasmine white on the wall to camera left.

Light green on the inside of the windows, plus two test patches of natural taupe 2 (the darker one) and natural taupe 3 (the lighter one).

Light green on the inside of the windows, plus two test patches of natural taupe 2 (the darker one) and natural taupe 3 (the lighter one).

Jasmine white on the walls and natural taupe 3 on the inside of the windows and the skirting boards. The architrave and skirting boards are plain MDF for the sake of this experiment.

Jasmine white on the walls and natural taupe 3 on the inside of the windows and the skirting boards. The architrave and skirting boards are plain MDF for the sake of this experiment.

Bad weather and a leaking roof

October 27, 2013 /

We have had some bad weather this weekend.  While the study in the rebuilt lean-to was being plastered, it became apparent that there is a problem with the flashing.  This is where the top of the roof meets the wall to the main building. 

This needs to be looked at quickly.

While my study was being plastered this weekend, it became obvious that there was a problem with the flashing on the roof.

While my study was being plastered this weekend, it became obvious that there was a problem with the flashing on the roof.

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